In April 2022 I quit my job, boarded a plane, and spent 31 nights in Europe for less than a third of the cost it should have been. I spent most of my nights in 5-star hotels, eating whatever I wanted and never missing any must-see experiences. It was one of the best times of my life. This complete Europe for Free itinerary is to help you recreate any portion of the trip that you want to. It includes all my stays and how I booked them, the best ways to get around, where we ate and what we did with all the links you need to make this trip happen.

What is Europe for Free?

In early 2021 I proposed a crazy idea to my husband: what if we spent a month in Europe for free? At first, we both thought I was crazy. I had been a budget traveler for years now, saving us thousands of dollars through some credit card points but mostly promotions, airfare deals, and traveling during shoulder season. But, after doing some math we decided to jump into a huge exercise in budget travel hacking, taking out credit cards with a precise strategy to meet the minimum spends, earn sign-up bonuses, and move on to another card. This strategy resulted in a trip of a lifetime spending 31 nights in Italy, Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary, Croatia, and Turkey for only $4,000 for everything.

On my Instagram, many of my followers requested a list of our stays, activities, food, and how we got around to recreating portions of the trip. Well, here it is!

Rome

Getting around

We booked a shuttle service from the airport to our hotel. It was only $12 or so more to take the shuttle than the Leonardo Express train. We took the train back to the airport when we went to Prague. Either option is $20 cheaper than taking a taxi.

The subway and train system in Rome is very efficient. You can buy single fare, day- or multi-day passes.

Where we stayed

We paid 15,000 Hyatt points a night for the JdW Tribune in Rome. It is the cheapest Hyatt option in Rome. You can earn these points with a Hyatt credit card or transferring them from a Chase Sapphire to Hyatt. We chose to transfer points from our Chase Sapphire sign-up bonus.

The hotel is close enough to walk to many of the tourist-center attractions (about 1 mile), or you can take the subway nearby. Overall, we really liked the hotel and the location was next to a large park worth visiting, too.

What we ate

I wrote a complete guide to the best ways to save money on food in Rome.

San Marco

Located around the corner from the Tribune, this restaurant serves some good pasta and pizzas after a long day around Rome. For the quality of the food, the prices are fair and the service is good.

Mordi e Vai

Serving up Italian subs in a small market, you have to check out their €5 subs. When you arrive, take a number from the counter and wait for it to appear on the screen. Once your number appears you can head to the counter and order. While in the Mercato di Testaccio, be sure to eat at some of the other food vendors. The prices are reasonable, you’ll see a lot of locals on their lunch break, and you can make your own food tour in one place.

Suppli Roma

Suppli are basically risotto filled with pizza ingredients. And, as they sound, they are absolutely delicious. These suppli are some of the best I tried and will one cost you €2 apiece.

La Norcineria di Lacozzilli

This shop is serving up the most delicious porchetta I’ve ever had in my life. The deli has a variety of meats and cheeses, and fresh pasta and they even make sandwiches if you can figure out how to order them. Do yourself a favor and go inside to grab yourself some porchetta to-go.

Come il Latte

Cute gelato place near The Tribune hotel with some really rich flavors and fair prices. Be sure to try their chocolate gelato with a homemade cone.

Ditirambo

A cute, authentic Italian restaurant in the heart of Rome. This place had the best pasta I ate. The environment is simple, but so is Italian food. A plate of carbonara will cost you €13.

Salotto 42

Some of the best cocktails I’ve had abroad, this place is serving things like a popcorn old fashioned and the most upscale spritz I’ve seen in Italy. Come here for an apperitivo and overlook the Roman columns that date back to the 2nd century. Talk about a place with a view! Having a reservation here is a must and drinks start at €10.

What we did

Free Tours by Foot Trastevere Food Tour

You pay what you want throughout the tour through the Trastevere neighborhood. The pace of the tour is good and you’ll spend about €10 on the tour. Don’t forget to tip your guide at the end!

Roman Forum and Colosseum

We paid for the tickets in advance and used the Rick Steve’s Audio Europe app for a free walking tour of both the Roman Forum and Colosseum. I highly recommend using the app. Without it, most of the Forum and Colosseum doesn’t mean much. Plus, it’s completely free to do. If you remember, bring some headphones (wireless are better to share) but you can just listen aloud just the same.

Mercato di Testaccio

A real local market experience in the Testaccio neighborhood. The market has a small food court area in the middle to sit and eat all the amazing foods of the market. You’ll likely need to take the train here and will Piramide station. On your way to the market, check out the Piramide di Caio Cestio, a weird pyramid in the middle of Italy.

Walk the Trastevere neighborhood

Get out of the hustle of the touristy Rome and spend a day in the Trastevere neighborhood. The neighborhood has some amazing restaurants for about half the price of the city center and walking there you’ll see many Roman ruins unknown to those only exploring the Trevi Fountain and Pantheon.

The Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, and Piazza Navona

You can easily see all these attractions in one walk. The Pantheon can get long lines throughout the day, so go early or late.

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

Maybe not worth the price tag but definitely worth the experience is the Sistine Chapel. I mean, it’s the Sistine Chapel! You can buy skip-the-line tickets but if you are going in off or shoulder season you can just show up and get tickets at the door after a short wait. There are a lot of scammers and ticket salesman trying to get you to buy their tickets when you go to get in line. Some will even tell you that the Vatican is sold out and there is no way inside without their ticket. Don’t listen to them. Just keep walking down the Vatican wall and get in the line on the left.

Roman Food Tour

While we actually booked this highly rated food and wine tasting we ended up getting bumped to a food tour after our host couldn’t do the tasting. We ended up going on a food tour near the Vatican that was one of the best food tours I’ve done. What was great about this tour was the pace and the types of foods you got to try.

Prague

Getting around

We flew into Prague from Rome. There are many ways to get from the Prague airport to city center. We opted for the public bus. It’s cheap and super easy to get to from Terminal 1. I wrote a complete guide to getting from Prague airport to city-center with every method and cost.

Once in Prague, the tram system is very easy to navigate with a GPS system. You can buy tickets with your credit card on the tram or at smoke shops and even some hotels. Prague is fortunately fairly small and easy to navigate without needing a lot of tram rides.

Where we stayed

We booked this Airbnb for the four nights in Prague. I can’t say enough kind things about the owners, who even offered me their camera lens when mine broke! They were so helpful and had a wonderful city guide via Google sent to us. The Airbnb was in a great location, close to Old Town but far enough away that it was quieter. The only negative is that the wi-fi could be spotty or slow at times. If you’re working remotely, be sure to be prepared to find a coffee shop from time to time.

What we ate

Havelska Koruna

This is a very, very local place with a working-class type of meal. Havelska Koruna offers lunchroom-style options of hearty Czech dishes at a super affordable price. The menu changes daily and the items are available until they are sold out. Once inside, you’ll receive a ticket card that you’ll take to the counter with you. The servers will write which items you chose and you’ll pay when you leave the restaurant at the door.

Letna Beer Garden

This beer garden comes with an incredible view of Prague from above. You can take a tram to the base of the garden but be warned you’ll still have to walk up to get to it. This place is cash only – so come prepared. They have a couple of pub food options and beer and cider. A beer will cost you about $2.50. On a nice day, you’ll find friends and families gathering here.

Bakeshop

This local bakery has good fresh juices and coffee in addition to the pastries served. It’s not the kind of shop to sit down with your computer for hours, but certainly a place for a coffee.

Cafe Palanda

Our Airbnb hosts highly recommended this burger joint and it did not disappoint. The servings are gigantic and the burgers are juicy and unique. For the quality of the food and serving sizes, it’s a great deal. Depending on your appetite, I’d recommend sharing a burger meal.

Lokal

This, unfortunately, was not where we were able to eat but every local recommended this place. Unfortunately, you basically have to have a reservation to get in. And, they could be booked up for days! Before you even get to Prague, do yourself a favor and make a reservation here.

What we did

Jewish Quarter Tour

This was the most expensive experience we did in Prague and I hate to say that I didn’t think it was worth $25 a person. The ticket gives you access to numerous Jewish sites throughout the quarter including the oldest still operational synagogue in Europe. It’s important stuff, but the access to the buildings doesn’t include a lot of information to contextualize what you’re looking at.

I did download the GPSmyCITY app, which includes walking tours with no audio for different attractions. This was a helpful tool in the Jewish Quarter.

Prague Walking Tour

We did a Rick Steve’s Audio Europe self-guided walking tour of Prague. This tour had a great pace and took you through a large portion of the city. It takes about an hour, but you can stop along the way and stay at a place long before picking up the tour again.

Prague Castle and St. George’s Basilica

The Prague Castle is one of the best value experiences you will have in Prague. You can pay an additional fee to enter the museum and specific parts of the castle grounds but the majority of the castle is free to visitors. Inside the castle is a beautiful gothic church, St. George’s Basilica, that is also free for visitors. We paid $0.20 usd for a map, but you can also take a photo of the large map by the entrances.

Charles Bridge

What a tourist trap! If you want to actually enjoy the bridge you must go early. In Rick Steve’s audio guide, you’ll learn more about the various statues along the bridge, which gives a nice context.

Havlicek Park

This park has a nice botanical garden and grotto. Locals consider it the Central Park of Prague.

Vienna

Getting around

From Prague, we took a four-hour train ride to Vienna. I booked the train tickets on Omio, a transportation website and app to help you book train tickets. I like Omio because it’s included for Rakuten cashback and the app interface is easy to use.

Use my Omio referral link and we’ll both get $11 off our next rides!

Vienna public transportation is not the cheapest. You’ll pay more than $2.50 for a single-ride fare on the tram. You can pay for tram tickets once you get on the tram through the electronic machine. Once you get your ticket, you’ll then need to verify it in another, smaller box on the tram.

Where we stayed

One of the best Hyatt redemptions in Europe, we booked the Andaz Vienna for just 8,000 points a night. You can earn these points with a Hyatt credit card or transferring them from a Chase Sapphire to Hyatt. We chose to transfer points from our Chase Sapphire sign-up bonus.

This hotel was absolutely amazingly decorated, very close to the tram, and had one of the best free spa areas I’ve seen in a hotel. It’s about a ten-minute tram ride to city center, which makes it a little out of the way if you want to come and go from the hotel throughout the day. However, the hotel is also just around the corner from the main train station you’ll arrive at if coming by train from another country. Overall, this hotel was well worth the point value.

What we ate

Bitzinger Würstelstand

Great hot dogs and brat stand in the heart of Vienna. The hot dog and brats some inside of bun with ketchup and mustard inside. Take your dogs up the escalator at the monument to the right for a nice little park with better views and less pigeon poop.

Sluka Cafe

Traditional Viennese coffee house with yummy pastries and coffees. You’ll find locals reading the paper and gossiping here around 3:00p.

Schnitzel King

This place ended up being closed when we wanted to eat here but I highly recommend trying this place. They make fast-casual schnitzel sandwiches at a really affordable price and are located right by the Andaz in a cute little neighborhood strip. We ended up going to the train station nearby to get something from the food court but would have loved to try this place!

What we did

Belvedere Palace

The grounds and botanical gardens of the Belvedere Palace are free to visit but you’ll need to pay to enter the museum and other parts of the palace. We opted just to do the free activities around the palace. Fortunately, the palace is located a quick .5 miles from the Andaz, making it a great destination while staying there.

Old Town walking tour

With only one full day in Vienna we did the 2.5-hour free walking tour around the Old Town to see all the highlights. The tour gives you a good sense of direction in the city to get an idea of what highlights you want to spend more time at.

Viennese coffee house

Be sure to take a break to have a traditional Viennese coffee house coffee and pastry. There are many around the city and all the locals will tell you this is one of the “best.” Just do some research and find one that fits your preferences – they are all pretty good.

Budapest

Getting Around

Taking the train from Vienna to Budapest is really quick and easy. We upgraded to first-class for this leg, since it was only $5 per person more for the two-hour ride.

Use my Omio referral link and we’ll both get $11 off our next rides!

Once in Budapest, they have a relatively easy subway and tram system. We chose to buy 10 single-ride tickets at a time for a little less than $10. The verification ticket stations are not very easy to locate at times, but Budapest also has transportation police on the trams and exits checking for verification. Don’t miss it. They are located on the first door of the trams or if you’re taking the subway they are before the escalators down to the subway platform.

Where we stayed

We paid the most points of the trip to stay at the InterContinental Budapest, right on the river. I signed up for the IHG Premier card to earn Platinum Elite status and 150,000 IHG points. The Platinum Elite status upgraded us to a river view room and gave us the choice of 5,000 IHG points or two free drink certificates. I have to say, the bar at the InterContinental Budapest produced one of the best hotel cocktails I’ve ever had. Don’t miss it.

One of the major perks of the InterContinental is there is a tram right outside of the hotel. It makes it very convenient to see other parts of the city. You can also easily walk to major attractions around town from the hotel, too.

What we ate

Retro Langos

So good and cheap we went there twice, Retro Langos is serving up a variety of traditional and non-traditional langos. You can’t go wrong with the traditional langos with garlic, but you can try langos with goat cheese, fresh onion, and even pizza toppings. Don’t miss this place.

Hungarikum Bisztro

The best Hungarian food for tourists to enjoy and understand local meals. This place is absolutely adorable and reasonably priced. We were fortunate someone canceled when we arrived because, without a reservation, you’re not likely to get in. When we ate here, the staff told another couple they didn’t have availability for three nights! There are a couple of things that make this restaurant helpful for travelers. They bring out a menu on an iPad with pictures, they explain their ingredients to you, and they offer complimentary products throughout the meal to better understand how a Hungarian evening progresses. Plus, they make all the meals from the owner’s grandmother’s cookbook – no changes to appeal to tourists.

Budapest Doner Kabab

These kabab stands are all over Budapest serving up pitas and wraps. You can get a pita pocket for as little as $2. It’s not the best meal of the trip but it’s definitely worth the price for a quick bite.

New York Cafe

This is considered a “must-do” for many people visiting Budapest. The building was restored to its 1894 facade in 2006 and since then has been a destination for all types of travelers. You can make a reservation online to visit the New York Cafe, and it’s best to order a coffee and a small dessert. The best part about this is that anyone, regardless of budget, can afford to have a special treat here.

First Strudel House of Pest

Strudel is a traditional breakfast item in Hungary. Different than an American version, paper-thin layers of dough surround a variety of fillings, like apple, apricot, and savory versions, like cabbage. First Strudel House is said to serve some of the best in town, and I have to say it was pretty good. Plus, the outdoor seating area is a great place to have a coffee. While in the area, don’t forget to check out the controversial Holocaust memorial at Szabadság tér.

Street Food Karavan Budapest

You’ll hear more English spoken than anywhere in the city and you’ll have more global food options than anywhere in the city, too. This place is catered to tourists but that doesn’t make it not good. The prices are pretty affordable, the ambiance is amazing and the food is really good. Think of it as a quality food truck festival every evening.

What we did

Szimpla Kert Ruin Bar

Ruin bars are a must in Budapest and the Szimpla Kert is the most famous for a reason. The inside of the ruin bar is like a weird Alice in Wonderland with random, funky rooms that just work together to create the most trippy environment of your life. Drinks are expensive for Budapest at about $5 for a beer, but don’t let that stop you from heading inside and seeing what this place is about.

Szechenyi Thermal Bath and Swimming Pool

Another must of Budapest is the thermal baths. There are many within Budapest worth mentioning, but we opted for the largest and most well-known bath, Szechenyi. The baths have 18 different pools with inside and outside options. You can pay for sandals and towels to have, but it’s best if you can bring your own. Once inside, you’ll be given a wristband to place all your items in a locker. There are very few directions given here, so just go with the flow and see what the locals are doing for the best experience.

Faust Wine Cellar

One of the coolest experiences of the trip, this wine cellar is located far beneath the Buda Castle in an old escape tunnel. During a tasting, it’s lit by mostly candles over the four available tables. Gabor is the owner and only employee of the cellar. He keeps the experience small and intimate for his guests, making it an amazing way to try Hungarian wines. You can decide to do a 6- or 9-pour tasting, and they are large servings. With only four tables, it’s almost a requirement to make a reservation. Gabor still does it the old-fashioned way. So either call or email to get yourself in his notebook.

Buda Castle

An icon of Budapest is the Buda Castle. One of the best parts of staying at the InterContinental was the view of the Buda Castle lit up every evening. From Pest, it’s fairly easy to get to the Buda Castle with numerous trains and bridges giving access to the grounds. The castle itself is more of a marvel to view from afar but the grounds are largely free and open to visitors.

Fisherman’s Bastion

Just a quick walk from Buda Castle is the Instagramable Fisherman’s Bastion. The Bastion was completed in the 20th century but you’d hardly believe it looking at it. Beneath the Bastion is a souvenir shop and even a Starbucks. It’s worth spending some time walking the grounds and taking lots of photos. Be warned that you’ll see a lot of tourists here. The breathtaking photos online are taken early in the morning, before the crowds arrive.

Evening River Cruise

This was probably the best deal we had in Budapest, paying just $16 a person for an evening hour and a half cruise down the Danube with unlimited prosecco. And yes, it really was unlimited. The views are absolutely stunning and a different perspective of Budapest.

Get $30 off your first Viator booking with this link!

Dubrovnik

Getting around

There are no trains in Croatia but plenty of buses and taxis to get around. The easiest way to navigate Dubrovnik is using Uber. The 30-minute ride from the airport to the Old Town walls is only $25 with Uber, but you’d pay twice that with the taxi service.

Where we stayed

This is the only stop of the trip we booked two different accommodations. This was partially a change in our itinerary, as we originally had plans for an overnight to Montenegro that we changed. However, I think it was nice to have a new perspective, having stayed three nights in the walls and two nights outside.

For the first three nights, we stayed at this incredible Airbnb in Old Town. The Airbnb is located up the small hill and it is definitely a workout to get to. I did it with a backpack and I cannot imagine bringing a big suitcase up here. But once you are here, the views from the balcony are absolutely stunning. We love having coffee out here in the mornings.

We moved to the amazing Hilton Imperial just outside of Old Town for two nights. Having Diamond Status with my Hilton Aspire card upgraded us to a suite and the hotel was amazingly generous because of our status: the manager emailed me a week before asking about our arrival, and they came to the room after we arrived to ensure everything was up to our standards, and they even let us check-in at 9:30a! The food in the Executive Lounge and room service was some of the best I’ve ever had. I cannot recommend this hotel enough, especially if you have Diamond status.

The Hilton Aspire card is one of my favorite travel credit cards. Sign-up with my referral link!

What we ate

Lady Pi-Pi

Lady Pi-Pi is serving up some classic Croatian dishes in a huge chimney right in front of you. The food is absolutely stellar but the views from the rooftop area are even better. Be sure to get the octopus salad, it’s to die for. You might be wondering how to pronounce Lady Pi-Pi (I certainly was!) and it’s exactly what you think: the name derives from a statue in front of a woman peeing. During high season Lady Pi-Pi can fill up fast and they don’t take reservations. Come early or be ready to wait for some amazing Croatian meats and fish done right.

Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota

This restaurant has its own oyster farm that serves all the oysters at the restaurant. They aren’t the cheapest oysters in town but they are good quality. This was our most expensive meal for the servings in Dubrovnik but what it did right was its seafood. Outside of the oysters- which you should try- they make some of the best sushi I’ve had in Europe. But be warned, for the price their portions are quite small.

Barba

One of the best values you can have in Dubrovnik is Barba. It’s a tiny shop that only seats around 12 people but you can always takeaway. The restaurant is serving some new-age Croatian seafood with shrimp burgers and fried oysters. Their portions are absolutely huge, so either come hungry or ready to share.

Dubrovnik Beer Company

When we got here, my husband immediately said you wouldn’t even realize you were in Croatia looking at the place. And he’s right, this brewery looks straight out of a hipster U.S. city. The best way to dine here is after a ferry ride to one of the Elaphiti Islands since it’s located just a short distance from the docks. But, you can walk or take a taxi anytime. The brewery has a rotating selection of beers you usually don’t find around here. Plus, they serve tacos, bbq, and other Americana flare.

What we did

Day trip to Mostar, Bosnia

After doing a lot of research on how to get to Mostar, it was definitely cheaper to go on a guided day trip than to do it ourselves. We paid just $60 a person on this guided tour. The tour was good and gave some great context to Bosnia but it wasn’t the best way to experience the country. If I could have another go at this trip, I’d likely have done an overnight (or two nights) in Mostar instead. But, if you just want to see the city, going on a guided experience will certainly save you money.

Kayak trip

The most challenging experience of the entire trip was our kayak trip around Lokrum Island. For only $29 a person with lunch, the 3-hour experience is a great deal if you are up for the challenge. The views are amazing and you get to see some parts of the coast that can only be seen on the water. You’ll even have an opportunity to snorkel on the shore. But be warned, it is a workout.

Self-Guided Game of Thrones filming locations

Dubrovnik has capitalized on Game of Thrones like no other filming location. Game of Thrones souvenir shops are all over town and walking tours focused on the filming in Dubrovnik are plentiful, too. Though you could go on this free GOT walking tour, we opted to walk around town and see the locations ourselves. A quick Google of the locations will give you plenty of blogs to tell you about each location and how to find it. What I liked about doing it this way was that we could get lost in the Old Town and just enjoy the experience. (If you’re a real fan, you can also take the boat to Lokrum Island and see Iron Throne HBO left as a parting gift.)

Elaphiti Islands

Far less touristy than Lokrum, the chain of Elaphiti Islands are where locals go to relax, cool off, and enjoy themselves. We chose to spend a couple of hours on Lopud. If you go in the off-season you won’t see much of anything, as the town very much relies on summer tourism. However, during the season shops and restaurants will be open. Lopud has some nice hiking trails and across the island, you’ll find a beautiful beach tucked away with amazing mountain views in the distance. You don’t want to miss it.

Getting to the islands is as easy as taking a cheap ferry ride to and from the islands.

Evening Old Town Walking Tour

Last-minute we decided it was worth it to book an evening walking tour around the Old Town to learn more about the sites. And with the tour only costing $13 a person, it was a great deal to see the city after the cruise ship tourists had left for the evening. If you want to do a walking tour, I highly recommend an evening one.

Cappadocia

Getting around

Flying into Cappadocia you’ll land at one of two airports both about the same distance from many of the tourist cities in the region. We flew in and out of Kayseri, which is a little over an hour’s drive from Göreme. Most hotels and even Airbnbs will help arrange transportation from the airport to your hotel. They have nicely refreshed shuttle busses you’ll take to your city with other travelers from your flight. Once you exit the airport, you’ll see your driver with a sign waiting for you. Though the ride is long, you’ll only pay $10 a person for a one-way to or from the airport.

Though there is public transportation that I recommended for some experiences, most transportation is via taxi or on foot. All hotels work with transportation companies to serve any destination you have in mind and they’ll help give you instructions to take the public bus system, too.

Where we stayed

We opted to stay in the tourist center of Göreme at the Sato Cave Hotel. The hotel was in a great location, the rooms were well furnished and clean and it had one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve ever had in my life. Note that the Sato Cave Hotel has been recently purchased and renovated. So, some of the reviews on a couple websites aren’t that great from the previous owners.

I booked our stay through Airbnb, but you can book the hotel on many platforms. Compare prices and see what works best for you.

What we ate

I should preface this section because it’s going to be really brief. We were fortunate to have such an amazing breakfast at the Sato Cave Hotel that we didn’t eat lunch. And, we got in so late that we only had two opportunities to eat dinner.

Dibek Traditional Home Cook Restaurant

The only reason to go here is to eat the traditional pottery kabab. Anyone in town will tell you that Dibek does them the best. A traditional pottery kabab is cooked over coals for four hours before being served hot. Some restaurants shortcut and cook the meat separately, only to make a show last-minute for naive tourists but Dibek does them right. You’ll certainly need a reservation ahead of time with what pottery kabab you want (go with the meat). Even cooler to foreigners is you eat on the floor surrounded by Turkish pillows and rugs at this eatery. It’s cool, even if it’s a touristy addition.

Seten Anatolian Cuisine Restaurant

Recommended by our hotel, the Seten Restaurant has its hand in a variety of Turkish meals. It’s not upscale but it’s not dressed down either. The best thing to do is buy a bottle of Turkish wine and order a couple of dishes. Though I didn’t order it, I left wishing I ordered the lamb shank after hearing a couple profusely complimenting the recommendation and cleaning their plate. However, what I did have and can recommend is the Cappadocia Ravioli, which are tiny dumplings with yogurt and spicy sauces on top.

What we did

Kaymakli Underground City

One of the best experiences of the trip was a visit to the Kaymakli Underground City. The city is about a 30-minute drive from Göreme and there are a couple of options to get there and back. The most common way to go to Kaymakli is with a guided tour. However, I think the experience is better on your own with a little bit of research prior to your visit. We opted to take a taxi to Kaymakli for $22 and the public bus back to Göreme for about $3.

The Kaymakli Underground City is cheap to visit, only costing you about $2.50 a person for your entrance ticket. You can purchase your ticket with a card or cash upon arrival. I recommend not going with a guide and watching your Youtube videos about the underworlds of Cappadocia before your visit to educate yourself on the experience.

Cappadocia all-day tour

For just $32 you’ll get a full day’s entertainment with this small-group tour around Cappadocia. The tour takes you to many of the region’s highlights quickly with a highly experienced guide that makes it well worth the time. Though I recommend this tour to everyone, I think it’s especially helpful if you only have a couple of days to explore the region since getting around by yourself can take a lot longer on the bus and if you pay for a private taxi for the day, it’s a lot more expensive.

Pottery experience

One of our favorite experiences was spending a morning with Mahmut and his family at one of the oldest pottery studios in Cappadocia. For only $6 a person you get a totally personalized tour of the pottery studio and some time on the wheel. Be warned: at the end of the tour you’ll be taken to the pottery studio to look at buying some pieces. Their pottery is absolutely stunning and you really should buy something but if you can’t be ready to say no and keep going with your day.

Istanbul

Getting around

Both airports in Istanbul are about an hour’s drive from the touristy Old City area of Istanbul. I recommend purchasing a private transfer for about $40 to ensure you get where you’re going at the most affordable and quickest rate. We used this company both to and from the airports and they were excellent. I can’t say enough positive things about them.

Istanbul has a pretty good public transportation system… once you can figure out how to get your tickets. For one, you have to insert exact change or 20 tl bills – no larger. This can be a problem if you utilize the ATMs around town, which will give you 100 and 200 bills. Rarely you’ll find machines that take cards and if you find one, buy all the tickets you think you’ll need. When riding the tram, you’ll need to utilize a ticket to get through the turnstile and onto the platform. Google Maps is an excellent tool that will certainly get you where you need to go with the trams, too.

If you want to get between the Asia and Europe continents, you can use the same tram tickets for the ferry. Your Google Maps will also give you directions with the ferry system that even includes the exact ferry house to get on your specific boat. Each ride will cost you about $1 but if you think you’ll be riding the tram frequently you can get a day pass.

Where we stayed

For Istanbul, we stayed at the Holiday Inn Old City. It was a really nice hotel about a mile from the start of most Old City attractions. Overall, my experience here was very positive. However, I realized rather quickly that I would have preferred to stay in Kadikoy, a hipper neighborhood on the Asian side. Though, know you’d have to take a 40-minute ferry across to the Old City to see many of the attractions staying over there. It wouldn’t have bothered me, but it might be a burden to you.

For the Holiday Inn, we utilized IHG points for the 4th night free with points. So, though we stayed five nights, we paid for one night with a $101 cash rate and the other four nights with points. After monitoring the point rates, I ended up with a rate of 42,000 points for the four nights, a pretty solid redemption.

What we ate

Lezzet-i Şark Antep Sofrası

Near the Grand Bazaar, you have to come here to try the famous beyran soup. The soup is made from lamb cheek and neck with a bit of rice and a rich and spicy broth. It was so good we went back a second time. If you want to try other Turkish classics, this is also a great restaurant to do that. It’s cheap and delicious and highly recommended.

Gala Kokoreç

Probably the second-best thing I ate in Turkey was an intestine sandwich. Gala Kokorec is a franchise with a couple of locations to choose from in Istanbul. Though I know intestines aren’t for everyone, it’s a local treat that’s super popular late at night. It’s a, “don’t knock it until you try it” must-do item for me.

Safa Tatlıcı

Though there are many great options for Turkish desserts in Istanbul what I like about Safa Tatlici is that you’ll see locals here. Definitely try the baklava but my favorite dessert here is the künefe.

Rita Deli

Located on the Asian side, Rita Deli is a new-age Turkish restaurant that if you closed your eyes and ate the food you might mistake it for new-age BBQ instead. They found a way to make pulled beef ribs that traditionally took multiple days to cook in a matter of hours and use this technique on brioche buns with BBQ sauce and American cheese. Yes, it is as good as it sounds.

DiREN Tantuni

Okay, this one is going to sound weird. But, if you’ve ever had a Meximelt from Taco Bell (R.I.P.) then you have to try the et dürüm tantuni. What I like about this dish is the addition of fresh parsley, tomato, and onions to the beef in the wrap. This makes it taste fresher and lighter.

Lotiz Lounge and Hookah

If you want a hip restaurant serving a variety of dishes right near the Holiday Inn Old City, you’ve found it. Lotiz Lounge and Hookah is funky with colorful hookahs and a lot of good food. It’s not cheap like the local restaurants but it’s definitely going to wow you with its showmanship. On the outside, this place might look like somewhere that’s all show no action but it’s good. Like, really good.

Sar Resturaunt

When I asked a shop worker where to eat and they recommended this place I thought, “cool.” But I left thinking, “yum!” The restaurant is in a street full of local foods with local prices in the middle of the touristy district next to a Burger Kind. You can’t go wrong with most of them, but Sar has a buffet line with local items for people to eat on their lunch breaks. If you’re a Westerner be warned: they’ll guide you to a table with a menu no matter how much you protest. The donor kabab plate is good and cheap. The two of us ate with drinks for only $9.

What we did

Free walking tour

We booked a free walking tour of the Old Town through Free Tours by Foot, but the tour was operated by Free Istanbul Tours. The Old Town tour takes you through a variety of locations, including the Hagia Sophia. It’s a really great tour to get you familiarized with some of the highlights and with Istanbul being fairly affordable a $10 tip per person at the end of the tour is a reasonable fee.

Old City food tour

Ahmet is an amazing host who will take you to some hidden gems right in the touristy Old Town. His tour is affordable ($45 a person), interesting and he’s just a super cool guy. Do not miss this experience!

Asia side food tour

I heard a lot of great things about the Asian side’s food options and wanted to explore them with a local. Burcu lives in the neighborhood you’ll explore and brings you to some really great food stalls and restaurants. On this tour, you pay for your food throughout it but it’s not even $10 per person by the end.

Topkapi Palace

An Instagram-worthy destination, the Topkapi Palace is a beautiful compound full of cool architecture, stellar tile mosaics, and relaxing courtyards. You can give some of the compound without a ticket but I recommend purchasing the ticket with the Harem entrance. It’s more expensive but I think if I didn’t buy the Harem ticket I would not have enjoyed the palace nearly as much. The entrance with Harem is about $25 per person.

Grand Bazaar

With over 4,000 shops this place is a madhouse of tourists buying marked-up goods. One of my favorite parts of the bazaar is sharing tea with shop owners while looking at their products. Only buy something here if you think it’s really special because you’ll certainly find a better deal outside of the bazaar.

Spice Market

Located near the Grand Bazaar, the spice market sells a variety of spices and other trade goods and sweets. Stop in one of the many tea shops and grab yourself a sample of some amazing dried teas.

Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia is currently a pretty controversial topic of conversation in Istanbul. What was a museum and heritage center since the 1930s has recently been transitioned back into a mosque. Going here on a tour has a lot of benefits since you’ll learn about the interesting history and transition of the building as different religions utilized the building (something the museum used to do). Though I highly recommend understanding the history of the building, the Hagia Sophia is open 27/7, so be sure to come early in the day or late in the evening for fewer tourists. Just remember it is a mosque, so it will be closed for prayer five times a day.

Walking the Kadikoy neighborhood

If I made one mistake on the trip it was not staying in the Kadikoy neighborhood. Far less touristy and far more hipster the Kadikoy neighborhood is a highlight of Istanbul. If you’re staying on the European side of Istanbul you can easily take a $1 ferry ride over to Kadikoy for a day trip. Be sure to eat well and walk the shoreline.

Explore on. -K